ST. JAMES'S. Green's rates high on the culinary scale, thanks to a menu of regional dishes and the kitchen's use of fresh seasonal produce and seafood. Indeed, diners are enticed by such entrees as grilled halibut, filet of sole with spring leeks and parsley and a near-famous sticky toffee pudding. The refined dining room features rich mahogany paneling, cozy leather banquettes, linen-draped tables, and a clubby attitude. TUBE: Green Park

COVENT GARDEN. J. Sheeky has been serving deliciously fresh seafood for quite a while now, and its sinful fish pies have even achieved masterpiece status. Other menu highlights include beluga caviar with blinis and sour cream, chopped tomatoes with fennel, and lobster with homemade mayonnaise. Only slightly less exclusive than sibling The Ivy, J. Sheeky is elegant without being pretentious. Its interior features leather banquettes, dark paneling, and supper club-style paintings. TUBE: Leicester Square

CHELSEA. Recollecting a lively Cannes bistro, this snug Chelsea establishment enjoys a vastly loyal group of regulars, who crowd in nightly for fresh oysters, clams, crabs, and bouillabaisse. Gallic fare fits well with the South of France decor, and friendly service ensures good repeat business, even from tourists. Of course, Le Suquet also boasts an excellent wine list. TUBE: South Kensington

KENNINGTON. A kitschy nautical setting (yes, those are seagulls and crashing waves you hear in the background!) sets the stage for this unique seafood restaurant, whose cuisine is heavily influenced by Bretagne. The menu features seafood bouillabaisse, grilled prawns with garlic butter, and lobsters cooked to order. Service is friendly and professional, and traditional French garb and accents add to the overall scene. There's a terrific wine list, as you might expect. TUBE: Kennington

CHINATOWN. This Leicester Square institution has been around since the late '20s, and local folks clamor into the dining room often for fresh-from-the-sea delights. Patrons are immediately put at ease by the homey, unpretentious decor, which looks to have changed little since the restaurant's earliest days. The menu features such specialties as lobster thermidor, tiger prawns Provençal with rice, Dover sole meunière, and poached skate with beurre noisette and capers. Reservations are suggested. TUBE: Leicester Square