BAYSWATER. This restaurant is known for its duck, which is light, flavorful, and not at all fatty. The most popular method of presentation is barbecue, with its sensationally crispy skin. The set dinner allows folks to sample delicate spring rolls, sweet corn-and-crab soup, and sweet-and-sour pork. Filet of Dover sole with scrambled eggs is also delicious. TUBE: Bayswater or Queensway

CHINATOWN. One of Chinatown's stars since the mid-'60s, classy Fung Shing appeals to folks who appreciate impeccable service and divine Cantonese fare. From the outside, the cozy eatery's blue-framed exterior looks more like an English pub than a Chinese restaurant ­ until you spot the golden script overhead that reads, "Specialists in Cantonese Cuisine." Menu highlights include roasts, hot-pot stews, Peking duck, and even more exotic dishes like spicy eel and fried baby squid stuffed with chili and garlic. TUBE: Leicester Square

BLOOMSBURY. Located off Tottenham Court Road, this basement eatery offers a modern approach to classic Chinese dishes, a philosophy also reflected in the place's upscale decor. Decorative screens, sleek black furniture, and a bevy of fashionable regulars make the sophisticated setting all the more attractive. Of course, creative cuisine gets rave reviews as well, thanks to roasted mango duck with lemon sauce and roasted silver cod with champagne and Chinese honey. The dim sum lunch is extremely popular with business folks. TUBE: Tottenham Court Road

CHELSEA. While other restaurants focus on milder styles of Chinese cooking, Hunan stands out by offering hot, spicy, authentic Western Chinese cuisine. If you can stand the heat, you'll be delighted by lettuce-wrapped chili chicken or stir-fried lamb with lotus root. Although they're hot, there's substance behind the spice, along with complex flavors. The menu is large, but the chef's special is always sublime, and you're guaranteed a unique dining experience. Plus, the maitre d' goes out of his way to secure your enjoyment. TUBE: Sloane Square

MAYFAIR. Kai is a top pick for first-class Chinese cuisine in an elegant environment. The Mayfair restaurant, with its muted colors, offers a number of regional cuisines but specializes in Szechwan delicacies. The descriptive menu includes exotic dishes like black pepper ostrich and the popular "Parcels of Prosperity," flaky, deep-fried pastries filled with shrimp. The luxurious room features a giant fish tank, gilt-trimmed walls and thickly upholstered, gold-striped seating. TUBE: Bond Street or Marble Arch